When it comes to the motorhome industry, Gary Bunzer, AKA The RV Doctor is a juggernaut.  For over 37 years The Doc has served as a foremost authority and technical educator of all things RV related.  We were flattered at Torklift Central when he agreed to interview our Vice President of Operations, Matt Lynch on how to properly dinghy tow a vehicle.  Having spent over a decade in the towing and custom hitch business, Matt knows a thing or two about the RV industry himself. The video above is a meeting of two great minds.  You might want to take notes. 

…Because we’re proud nerds on the topic, we’ve taken notes on your behalf.  The following points of interest aren't the only issues that need to be addressed when flat-towing a vehicle, but they’re definitely the ones you’ll want to look into first before hitting the road.
The most common foible RV owners make when towing their runabout vehicle is assuming their coach is rated to handle its weight.  Nearly 75% of Americans overload their trailer hitch and overstress the frame of their motorhome.  The reason for this is that nearly every RV is built on an elongated truck chassis through the process of Buttwelding.  After the extension, an RV’s tow rating should be limited to 3,500lbs for weight carrying or 350 lbs. tongue weight, regardless of a higher tow rating from the original chassis manufacturer. 
To correct this all-to-common dilemma, Torklift Central’s expert technicians have developed a process called Sub Frame Beef-Up.  By strengthening the weak connections formed during Buttwelding, we can increase the tow rating of your RV to accommodate your tow vehicle.  If your RV trailer hitch isn’t rated to handle the job, we can fabricate one for you that is. 
Choosing a tow bar from a quality manufacturer over a generic brand name won’t just keep you safe; it will save you an incredible amount of frustration.  Off-brand tow bars might be cheaper, but they have a nasty tendency to bind and jam during detachment.  Don’t resign to carrying a mallet around to hammer out this issue.  Instead, do yourself a favor with tow bars from Roadmaster. With exclusive all-terrain non-binding technology and the Freedom Latch, your tow vehicle will release at any angle, level or bind – the first time, every time.  
You shouldn’t just install an auxiliary braking system on your tow vehicle because it’s the law to do so in nearly every state.  When you need to make an emergency stop, or even stop in a slight rush, the added weight pushing your coach can extend braking distances to a dangerous level. Torklift Central can explain the difference between proportional and progressive auxiliary braking systems from market leading brands, and install the right setup for your RV-coach combination.
Lastly, no serious dinghy-tower should be without our Towing App.  Available for iPhone, iPad and Android, it features a database of tow ratings for every vehicle on the market from 1979-current, as well as the dinghy tow ratings of vehicles that are towable behind a motorhome from 2002-current.
Of course, you don’t have to be a certified RV Doctor to figure any of this out.  Give us a call, email us, or come see us in person at Torklift Central.  We’ll get your dinghy towing setup on the road the right way, the first time.